Remote computer hive monitoring

[Jiminycric]

It's neat looking at other hives info with the same kind of sensors - but keeping in mind location will affect it all.
I had grabbed some readings here again today to see how things are. The temp has been extremely constant, no large fluctuations. The humidity has been all over the place - but can be the location of the sensor.

[Allen Dick]

A picture of the sensor in position would be informative.

Brood temperature should be very constant. We observed it at 95.5 degrees plus or minus almost zero for periods of time with sensors placed in the brood of a strong colony, even in spring weather.

Temperatures at the periphery of sealed brood my be lower, especially in prolific colonies and colonies that dwindle after establishing brood, like spring colonies and package bees. This may be one reason why Italian bees are sometimes found to be more susceptible to chalkbrood than more conservative strains.

[Jiminycric]

The sensor was started up a day and a bit before it went into the hive, so from the spike (just below the "week") to the right is from the sensor that was placed on the top of B2 in the centre of the hive. I can provide a pic later today when I am hoping to do my first honey extraction! Haha I am excited to extract my first harvest.

[Biermann]

Hi Allen,

your mentioned way to check hives thoroughly is the way I use, except for one difference, because of my special boxes, I always return the frames to the box I pulled them out off. Your suggested procedure assures to a high degree that one does not loose the queen by 'accident'.

I checked this (yellow) hive this pm when we had very nice, hot weather and found that the core was not centered, but to the side by the frame feeder. I also checked as you had mentioned, found brood, mostly worker brood and three queens cells, two capped, one still open. I left all as is and hope the hive will figure out what needs to be done. I did not find the queen, since I did not take B1 apart, did not have the guts to do it and thought I should not, since I found brood, queen brood and healthy conditions, other than perhaps a 'not so hardworking' queen.

Cheers, Joerg

[Allen Dick]

The easy way is to lay the hive down backwards and place the empty box on a new floor in front of the fallen hive, then work through the boxes one by one, starting with the bottom one, examining each frame and placing it into a box on the new floor. This way the bees are far less disturbed that than when the hive is worked on its original stand.

A well-glued hive will not break when being tipped back, but newer hives need a board or a strap or something to ensure they do not break apart when being tipped down. Larger hives can also get heavy when past the tipping point, so some planning and/or assistance may be indicated.