Slick trick queen rearing variant.
- AdrianQuineyWI
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Slick trick queen rearing variant.
Allen, I have another suggestion on your "slick trick" variant that may be worth trying. If brood is brought above an excluder for a week or so and the queen can't access it, when you add that single freshly grafted cell you were talking about in today's diary page they would have no other choices to make queens from, and make the work a bit easier.
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Re: Slick trick queen rearing variant.
It is an interesting idea, but I've had problems trying something similar, adding a ripe cell to a split above an excluder or even maintaining a weak colony above an excluder on a stronger one at this time of year. Did not work for me.
That is not to say the idea is not a good one, but there are a lot of variables Some cannot be controlled and others we don't even think about, or perhaps know about.
Have you had success with it?
That is not to say the idea is not a good one, but there are a lot of variables Some cannot be controlled and others we don't even think about, or perhaps know about.
Have you had success with it?
Allen Dick, RR#1 Swalwell, Alberta, Canada T0M 1Y0
51° 33'39.64"N 113°18'52.45"W
http://www.honeybeeworld.com/Allen%27s%20Beehives.kmz
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51° 33'39.64"N 113°18'52.45"W
http://www.honeybeeworld.com/Allen%27s%20Beehives.kmz
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- AdrianQuineyWI
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Re: Slick trick queen rearing variant.
I didn't state what I meant very well. Last year when making some splits I took brood that had been above an excluder for a week away from queenright hives and set it aside in nuc boxes. These nucs were then hopelessly queenless because there was nothing young enough to turn into a queen. In the evening I propped the nucs up a bit at the front and added a slurp of syrup to the bottom board. The propping kept the syrup in the nuc. Lastly, I added ripe cells. They turned out well. Although they didn't turn out as well as my Disselkoen splits because they were started later, and not having a foraging force, needed to be fed.
I read somewhere that it takes as few as 300 bees to make a queen. I see a lot of potential in your method because giving the bees a cell to build or finish ensures a longer brood break than giving a ripe cell.
I consider the summer brood break to be the most underappreciated, or perhaps the most understudied mite control method.
Additionally, another twist. I believe it is traditional in New Zealand to start splits with 48 hour cells. It is my understanding that the 48 hour cell is quite robust and can tolerate being shaken all over back country New Zealand roads which is one of the reasons they like them.
One advantage of using 48 hour cells is that you already know that they have been accepted by bees.
One thing i have concerns about is whether having zero open brood except for the queen cell would mean that the queen cell would be ruined by mites? What do you think?
I read somewhere that it takes as few as 300 bees to make a queen. I see a lot of potential in your method because giving the bees a cell to build or finish ensures a longer brood break than giving a ripe cell.
I consider the summer brood break to be the most underappreciated, or perhaps the most understudied mite control method.
Additionally, another twist. I believe it is traditional in New Zealand to start splits with 48 hour cells. It is my understanding that the 48 hour cell is quite robust and can tolerate being shaken all over back country New Zealand roads which is one of the reasons they like them.
One advantage of using 48 hour cells is that you already know that they have been accepted by bees.
One thing i have concerns about is whether having zero open brood except for the queen cell would mean that the queen cell would be ruined by mites? What do you think?
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Re: Slick trick queen rearing variant.
> I read somewhere that it takes as few as 300 bees to make a queen.
I think that is a good number. One bee can raise three workers from what I have read. (Someone correct me?)
> I see a lot of potential in your method because giving the bees a cell to build or finish ensures a longer brood break than giving a ripe cell.
Actually, when working to a schedule and trying to build before the flow, brood breaks are not what I need.
> I consider the summer brood break to be the most underappreciated, or perhaps the most understudied mite control method.
It did not work for me the year I lost 100%. There must be a lot of hidden variables.
> One advantage of using 48 hour cells is that you already know that they have been accepted by bees.
True. Cells of various ages are used here in Alberta. The main consideration is knowing when they are vulnerable and to what.
> One thing i have concerns about is whether having zero open brood except for the queen cell would mean that the queen cell would be ruined by mites? What do you think?
Queen cells AFAIK are not typically invaded by varroa. That could be due to the different position of the cell and larva. There are cases reported, however.
I question some of Mel's statements about varroa, but have no evidence.
Quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur
I think that is a good number. One bee can raise three workers from what I have read. (Someone correct me?)
> I see a lot of potential in your method because giving the bees a cell to build or finish ensures a longer brood break than giving a ripe cell.
Actually, when working to a schedule and trying to build before the flow, brood breaks are not what I need.
> I consider the summer brood break to be the most underappreciated, or perhaps the most understudied mite control method.
It did not work for me the year I lost 100%. There must be a lot of hidden variables.
> One advantage of using 48 hour cells is that you already know that they have been accepted by bees.
True. Cells of various ages are used here in Alberta. The main consideration is knowing when they are vulnerable and to what.
> One thing i have concerns about is whether having zero open brood except for the queen cell would mean that the queen cell would be ruined by mites? What do you think?
Queen cells AFAIK are not typically invaded by varroa. That could be due to the different position of the cell and larva. There are cases reported, however.
I question some of Mel's statements about varroa, but have no evidence.
Quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur
Allen Dick, RR#1 Swalwell, Alberta, Canada T0M 1Y0
51° 33'39.64"N 113°18'52.45"W
http://www.honeybeeworld.com/Allen%27s%20Beehives.kmz
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51° 33'39.64"N 113°18'52.45"W
http://www.honeybeeworld.com/Allen%27s%20Beehives.kmz
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- karen
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Re: Slick trick queen rearing variant.
If grafting consider putting in more than one queen cup, rather have extra than none at all. Grafting success is never100%. If I were to have the splits raise their queens I would probably just damage cells so they could draw the queen cell with out floating out the larvae. Why spend the time grafting? Of course with grafting you get to choose the queen mother.
How about the Hopkin's method? It seems like a easy method when raising queens for a one time purpose. Then all the queen cells are in one place and you know they are being successfully raised.
There is also Randy's idea "Queens for Pennies".
http://scientificbeekeeping.com/queens-for-pennies/
Or just keep it simple with doing nothing but a walk away split. Knowing you, my guess is that is what you will do.
How about the Hopkin's method? It seems like a easy method when raising queens for a one time purpose. Then all the queen cells are in one place and you know they are being successfully raised.
There is also Randy's idea "Queens for Pennies".
http://scientificbeekeeping.com/queens-for-pennies/
Or just keep it simple with doing nothing but a walk away split. Knowing you, my guess is that is what you will do.