I should hope not! Now-a-days I do not know anywhere that beekeepers can go the season with 1 or 2 brood inspections.
Why would you need/want to do any more brood inspections than that? There comes a point that unnecessary inspections are a waste of time. There also comes a point that your skills should be adequate that you don't need to do invasive inspections to know what is going on in the hive. Management styles also affect things.
Early to mid-March I will visit hives. I will pull a couple frames just to make sure there is brood (viable queen) and look for any signs of AFB. (never found AFB in my hives, but saw EFB one time) If queenless, I shake them out. If they have a laying queen, I give them one strip of Apivar in the center of the cluster and a gallon of thick syrup on the frame feeder that I keep in my brood boxes. I put on 2 or 3 patties. I gather up deadouts. (I do inspect brood frames for signs of AFB in deadouts.) I give the bees a scoop of TM.
In a couple weeks, I add more patties, and give the bees more syrup if necessary. As long as the bees are eating the patties, I don't inspect further. I may rearrange boxes depending how the bees are building up. The bees get another scoop of TM.
In 2 more weeks (mid-April), bees get patties again. Around this time I am finding purple eyed drones, so I may start grafting queens from my strongest hives depending on the weather and extended forecast. I do not search every hive for drones...just a couple strong hives. Depending on the weather, I start grafting between the middle and end of April.
The Apivar strip gets pulled at the end of April. As long as patties are being eaten, I know things are going good. Boxes may get rearranged depending on the hive. Fruit trees have bloomed and dandelions are still going strong, and I should be seeing fresh white wax. If I see fresh white wax and patties being eaten, I don't need to inspect further.
By beginning to mid-May, strong hives are split. Splits may be given a cell, or I may put 2 frames of bees in nucs and give them a cell as a 5 frame mating nuc. (These 5 frame nucs will be split again the beginning of July, and these nucs will be strong enough to overwinter by the end of the season. Or these nucs will be put into weak hives that aren't building up right by the beginning of June.) I mark splits that are given a cell, and I do check in a month to make sure I have a laying queen, but the brood inspection is limited to just making sure brood is present.
If I see patties being eaten and fresh white wax, hives are shaken down to a single deep brood box with a queen excluder and given 2 or 3 supers. By mid-May, I do not give them any more patties, as we have plenty of reliable pollen coming in by then.
At the beginning of June, I do any last splits just to prevent swarming using mated queens from my nucs for the splits. I do not split any hive after June 1 if I intend to make honey from it. At the beginning of June, I open the hive just far enough to see if they need more supers, and then super accordingly. (2-3 shallow or medium supers over the super they are working in.)
If any hives don't build up by June 1, I just pull enough empty frames so I can drop a nuc with a laying queen into them.
The beginning of July to mid-July I start pulling honey. When I pull honey, I pull boxes down to the excluder. I can tell if I have a box of bees or not, and as long as I have a brood box full of bees, I don't inspect the brood box. I try to leave the bees 3 supers.
Mid to end of August when I pull honey I give the bees one Mite-Away Quick Strip placed on top of the excluder. The bees typically get 3 empty supers.
At the end of September I pull the supers and excluders and get rid of the used MAQS. I put 2 empty supers on the bottom board and the brood box at the top. I inspect the brood frames, making sure I have a queen and that everything looks healthy. Weak hives are combined together. I give the bees a gallon of thick syrup in the frame feeder. I make sure the hive has an insulation pillow under my migratory lid. The bees get a scoop of TM.
During October I do as much feeding as necessary to prepare for winter. I try to do feeding as soon as possible. Once feeding is done the hives are on their own until March. Every time I feed a hive, it gets another scoop of TM.
I know if the bee population doesn't seem right. I can see if the bees aren't doing anything in the supers. I can tell if the bees have a queenless roar. Does the hive feel light? Is there fresh white wax, and patties being eaten? When you learn to read a hive by everything else, you can get a good idea of what is going on in the broodnest without having to inspect the brood frames. So why waste your time doing unnecessary inspections?
I don't (and have never) monitored for varroa. I've seen mites before. I saw DWV when I didn't treat. I know I have mites, so I treat. A strip of Apivar is about $3 and a strip of MAQS is about $2. Varroa treatment is so cheap I just treat rather than spending time checking for varroa. I don't go through hives replacing weaker queens. If a queen is getting weak, the hive will be weaker and will get combined in the fall. Or the bees will replace her.
So far this winter I have 15% losses for my hives and nucs. (I also took about a 15% loss in the fall when I combined weaker hives.)
It helps to keep in mind that I worked a season for a commercial beekeeper who spends about 2 man hours per hive per year, and learned a lot of my fast tricks and techniques from him. Boxes are prepared and brood frames sprayed full of syrup in the winter, and placed in yards. 2 pound packages are dumped in the last week of March. Mid-May to June 1 strong hives are split. (usually about 1/3 of the hives, and you should be able to do at least 25 splits a day.) Any drone layers or queenless hives are shaken out. The only brood inspection is to make sure brood is there, which you can tell by the population of bees just looking through the excluder. Extracting begins mid-July. After the final pull, bees in a single deep quickly starve. In winter you collect boxes, and use an air hose to blow dead bees out of cells, and then spray syrup into boxes again. You can spray combs full of syrup and get 40 boxes a day ready.
The majority of the man hours taking care of the hives was spent on extracting honey. Actual time inspecting and working the bees was minimal.
B. Farmer Honey
Central Ohio