Mr Dick a while back I was bemoaning the mite situation and you basically told me to just get apivar. After doing some thinking I believe I will follow that advice. In your opinion/experience, How early can I put it on my bees. My bees will be loosely clustered pretty soon or at least periodically during the Chinooks in my insulated wrap. Seems that the bees should mostly be in the upper box with minimal brood. I will have to wait for them to use up the dry sugar on the topbars which happens amazingly fast come February.
How early do you think it is possible to put apivar on? Thanks.
Apivar
- karen
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Re: Apivar
I live on the coast of southern Maine. Last year I put Apivar in on March 27 and took it out May 7. It was based on the average dates I am making splits and putting on supers. I put them in my wintered over nucs too but did it later.
The strips need to be in the hive at least 42 days and up to 56 days if repositioned. I could have put the strips in sooner to enable them to stay 56 days because of the cluster moving. I checked the clusters on April 15 to see if I needed to reposition the stripes, some I did and some I didn't. By April the bees are moving about the hive and flying some days. The normal first pollen here, in some of my yards, is sliver maple usually starting the second to third week of March. Last year it didn't start until the first week of April. This year I will see how the weather goes before I decide when I am putting in strips. We are having a very cold winter, more days -0 F than we usually get. Yesterday morning was -10 F today was 23 F.
Two things to consider with spring treatment is moving the strips so the cluster is still around the strips and timing it so you can get your supers on when you need to.
I only used one strip in the top box for each hive though some of the clusters where larger than the recommended 5 frames per strip. I do not know the mite burden before and after because I did not sample.
The strips need to be in the hive at least 42 days and up to 56 days if repositioned. I could have put the strips in sooner to enable them to stay 56 days because of the cluster moving. I checked the clusters on April 15 to see if I needed to reposition the stripes, some I did and some I didn't. By April the bees are moving about the hive and flying some days. The normal first pollen here, in some of my yards, is sliver maple usually starting the second to third week of March. Last year it didn't start until the first week of April. This year I will see how the weather goes before I decide when I am putting in strips. We are having a very cold winter, more days -0 F than we usually get. Yesterday morning was -10 F today was 23 F.
Two things to consider with spring treatment is moving the strips so the cluster is still around the strips and timing it so you can get your supers on when you need to.
I only used one strip in the top box for each hive though some of the clusters where larger than the recommended 5 frames per strip. I do not know the mite burden before and after because I did not sample.
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Re: Apivar
Apologies to be slow replying, but I figured Karen pretty well covered it. The only thing I can add is that the strips rely on contact to work so the bees have to be moving a bit at least some of the time to distribute the chemical and treat all the bees somewhat equally and not just the nearby ones excessively.
Personally, I apply the strips at the same time as the first patty or at least six weeks before I plan to begin splitting. That is when the bees get active and the build-up should begin.
Earlier may be fine. I don't see why not, but I'd want to have a good reason to begin earlier since any disturbance accelerates feed consumption and shortens bee life.
As for how many strips, I think the recommended amount is probably an ideal compromise between mite kill and bee damage. I tend to err on the skimpy side where there is a judgement call, but wonder if that is wise. Seems to me that there is no reason not to make half-strips and drill toothpick holes.
I assume everyone knows not to use the tangs to hang them since they then bow and crowd the comb on one side. No bee space on one side halves their effectiveness.
Personally, I apply the strips at the same time as the first patty or at least six weeks before I plan to begin splitting. That is when the bees get active and the build-up should begin.
Earlier may be fine. I don't see why not, but I'd want to have a good reason to begin earlier since any disturbance accelerates feed consumption and shortens bee life.
As for how many strips, I think the recommended amount is probably an ideal compromise between mite kill and bee damage. I tend to err on the skimpy side where there is a judgement call, but wonder if that is wise. Seems to me that there is no reason not to make half-strips and drill toothpick holes.
I assume everyone knows not to use the tangs to hang them since they then bow and crowd the comb on one side. No bee space on one side halves their effectiveness.
Allen Dick, RR#1 Swalwell, Alberta, Canada T0M 1Y0
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- Charlie
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Re: Apivar
Allen,
You say "I assume everyone knows not to use the tangs to hang them since they then bow and crowd the comb on one side. No bee space on one side halves their effectiveness."
For those of us who are amateurs how do you propose they are hung without using the tabs/tangs? Would an extra eighth inch/3 mm spacing between the frames help, just to make sure that there is bee space? The reason I asked the question is that the extra space should allow more bees in for heating the brood, a tighter cluster if you will, thereby allowing more contact and better distribution of the meds.
You say "I assume everyone knows not to use the tangs to hang them since they then bow and crowd the comb on one side. No bee space on one side halves their effectiveness."
For those of us who are amateurs how do you propose they are hung without using the tabs/tangs? Would an extra eighth inch/3 mm spacing between the frames help, just to make sure that there is bee space? The reason I asked the question is that the extra space should allow more bees in for heating the brood, a tighter cluster if you will, thereby allowing more contact and better distribution of the meds.
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Re: Apivar
There is a hole for a toothpick. Normal bee space is fine, but some commercial beekeepers space all frames a bit wider and use nine frames instead of ten per box. As far as I can tell, it makes no difference.
Allen Dick, RR#1 Swalwell, Alberta, Canada T0M 1Y0
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51° 33'39.64"N 113°18'52.45"W
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- karen
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Re: Apivar
A photo from last spring with pollen sub patties and Apivar on a hive.
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Re: Apivar
That must be a big hive smoked down so the bees don't show.
I always stack my patties over the brood area. until later when the who brood chamber is full of bees and most of the patty goes on the centre area if there are only one or two being fed, and since that is where the Apivar is, I cover the strip(s), too.
I always stack my patties over the brood area. until later when the who brood chamber is full of bees and most of the patty goes on the centre area if there are only one or two being fed, and since that is where the Apivar is, I cover the strip(s), too.
Allen Dick, RR#1 Swalwell, Alberta, Canada T0M 1Y0
51° 33'39.64"N 113°18'52.45"W
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51° 33'39.64"N 113°18'52.45"W
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- karen
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Re: Apivar
I did smoke them and left the Apivar uncovered for the photo. They had remains of some patties from before on them also as you can see.
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Re: Apivar
Here are some more pictures along the same line.
http://www.honeybeeworld.com/diary/2014 ... 041014.htm
http://www.honeybeeworld.com/diary/2014 ... 041014.htm
Allen Dick, RR#1 Swalwell, Alberta, Canada T0M 1Y0
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