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Construction
Details for a
Beehive Box Hand-Hole Cutter
See also
Using the Hand-Hole Cutter
The unit pictured here has cut
thousands of hand holes in new and used boxes over the years.
It has been safe and trouble-free. It can be modified to cut
either grooves or scoops. This one is set up for grooves.
Hopefully, these pictures should enable any handyman to make a
similar unit. This page shows construction details.
Instructions on cutting boxes will follow later. See
Important Safety Notice.
Top views: The working surface and jig
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The jig with safety guard closed.
The spacer, used for cutting ends, is far left in a
special pocket where it won't get lost or wander around |

The safety is shown partly open to show the marks
(forward left) for sliding the boxes: One is for the
ends, one for the sides. Note the full-face mask for
safety. |

Thin slats hold the box off the working surface and
ensure a consistent cutting depth even when shavings and
sawdust accumulate |
Click any picture to enlarge
The jig: The angle iron
structure seen on top of the table is the jig, and it is attached to
the plywood working surface. The rest of the unit is actually a
home-made high-powered dado machine, so this jig could actually be
built and used on a table saw -- if the saw happened to be
large enough to accommodate a dado, wobble blade, or a butterfly
cutter and heavy-duty enough to drive it. The jig is the special
item that controls the position and length of the cut.
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Click to enlarge
Bottom view of the table, looking up and showing the
motor and cutter, as well as the switch |
Lacking a suitable table saw or if a
dedicated hand-hole cutter is desired, this device can be built
using any sturdy table of a comfortable size and height as a frame.
We built the table shown from angle iron in a matter of an hour or
so, and mounted the drive and cutting parts under the deck.
Most hobbyist table saws are a
bit small, but a good-quality contractor's model could be used if
an appropriate sheet of strong plywood is be attached on top to
make a larger working surface on which the jig can be screwed
down. before proceeding, though, consider whether the
dados, when mounted, will reach through the working surface (5/8"
is recommended although thinner could possibly be used) plus
the necessary 5/8" cut into the super.
The working surface and jig
(above) is shown with safety cover open and closed. The cover
is on a common door hinge and not spring-loaded. It must be flapped
open to cut, then flapped closed as soon as the box run is done.
This is important, because there is an open blade spinning and you
should never leave one exposed -- even for a moment -- when not
actually looking at it and cutting. In the picture the guard is
propped up with a pencil for the photo, but when open it goes all
the way back to lie flat.
The Cutting Mechanism

Click any picture to enlarge.
Hover for info.
The cutter, in this case a wobble
blade, is mounted on a commonly available saw arbour and driven by a
belt, directly from the motor, which is a totally-enclosed cap-start
heavy-duty model A butterfly cutter (shown) could also be used
for prettier hand holes. |