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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009
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Hopkins Case Method ... “Many extensive honey producers
who desire to make short work of requeening an entire apiary, and do
not care to bother with mating boxes or other extra paraphernalia,
make use of the Hopkins Method.
To begin with, a strong colony is made queenless to serve as a cell
building colony. Then, a frame of brood is removed from the center
of the brood nest of the colony containing the breeding queen from
whose progeny it is desired to rear the queens. In its place is
given a new comb not previously used for brood rearing. At the end
of four days this should be well filled with eggs and just-hatching
larvae.
This new comb freshly filled is ideal for cell building purposes.
The best side of the comb is used for the queen cells and is
prepared by destroying two rows of worker cells and leaving one,
beginning at the top of the frame. This is continued clear across
the comb. We will now have rows of cells running lengthwise of the
comb, but if used without further preparation the queen cells will
be built in bunches so that it will be impossible to separate them
without injury to many of them. Accordingly, we begin at one end and
destroy two cells and leave every third one intact....
If all conditions are favorable, the beekeeper will secure a
maximum number of cells. From 75 to 100 fine cells are not
unusual...
The entire article is
here.
And there is more
here,
too |
I
arrived home from YOW (Ottawa) Sunday night, leaving my van with cousin Paul,
since I intend to go to Round Lake later this summer, and Ottawa is halfway
there.
After settling in, I looked the bees over and saw that several
hives were getting crowded and there were a few dead-outs, I gather from failed
splits. Nonetheless, the numbers are up.
I got to work splitting and organizing, and, when finished, have
30 hives where there were 9 this spring after unwrapping. Jean, Chris and
Ellen split them last on May 17th. That is six weeks ago and more. I
should have been here to split again sooner. If I had, I'd have
another 5 to 10 hives. ( I may, actually after I go through them, if I do, since
I can probably pull some brood and bees from the larger ones. I normally don't
go through the boxes and scrape, but after years if no scraping and being
plugged, the frames do need some attention). Not having queens, we have been making
walk-away spits. With the price of queens being around $20 or
more, and not wishing to produce any honey, this method makes sense. As it
is, most of the hives are plugged with fresh honey. I'm going to have to
go through the hives and pull some out, I am afraid so there will be room to
expand. For now, I pulled a fat comb of dandelion honey and pressed the
honey from it using a spoon. We got a large quart jar full, plus some.
In working the hives I notice that all the
supplement is gone from every hive. I had
crammed the hives with feed back in
April, some taking three or even four patties. Ellen had put a lot more on
when they split in May. Nothing is left, and I'm out of patties,
but will get some next week and resume feeding. I can see it pays.
I'd like to get some of the Southern Alberta pollinators trying patties while on
canola pollination. I am sure it would be a huge boost and improve their
wintering success very noticeably.
I suppose I could use the
Hopkins Case method, but, again that means making a strong hive
queenless, at least long enough to get the cells built and capped, at which time
they can be distributed to colonies.
I could raise queens for the splits, but that takes time and
resources. It takes a hive or two to do so, and time to do the graft or
prepare the eggs, and this way, I get the biggest bang for time invested.
I'll go back and check in a few days, being careful not to damage any cells, and
adding eggs to any that do not seem to be raising a queen. The hives
should all be queenright with laying queens three weeks from now. Some may
be ready for another split. We'll see. the end of July is the
deadline for successful splits. After that, some years, half the split
hives will die over winter.
In the past, I have received considerable flak for advocating
emergency queens, with many beekeepers insisting that bees will choose larvae
that are too old. A few wise old beekeepers have taken my side, but most
beekeepers are afraid of emergency queens. After all, emergency queens are
what we get in walk-away splits, so if the queens are no good, neither is the
method. In searching around, I notice that Michael Bush has found some
justification for my beliefs. See
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesqueenrearing.htm. Here is a quote:
Emergency queens:
"It has been stated by a number of beekeepers who should know better
(including myself) that the bees are in such a hurry to rear a queen
that they choose larvae too old for best results. later observation
has shown the fallacy of this statement and has convinced me that
bees do the very best that can be done under existing circumstances.
"The inferior queens caused by using the emergency method is because
the bees cannot tear down the tough cells in the old combs lined
with cocoons. The result is that the bees fill the worker cells with
bee milk floating the larvae out the opening of the cells, then they
build a little queen cell pointing downward. The larvae cannot eat
the bee milk back in the bottom of the cells with the result that
they are not well fed. However, if the colony is strong in bees, are
well fed and have new combs, they can rear the best of queens. And
please note-- they will never make such a blunder as choosing larvae
too old."--Jay Smith
"If it were true, as formerly believed, that queenless bees are in
such haste to rear a queen that they will select a larva too old for
the purpose, then it would hardly do to wait even nine days. A queen
is matured in fifteen days from the time the egg is laid, and is fed
throughout her larval lifetime on the same food that is given to a
worker-larva during the first three days of its larval existence. So
a worker-larva more than three days old, or more than six days from
the laying of the egg would be too old for a good queen. If, now,
the bees should select a larva more than three days old, the queen
would emerge in less than nine days. I think no one has ever known
this to occur. Bees do not prefer too old larvae. As a matter of
fact bees do not use such poor judgment as to select larvae too old
when larvae sufficiently young are present, as I have proven by
direct experiment and many observations."--Fifty Years Among the
Bees, C.C. Miller
|
 Jonathan
arrived up from California with the kids for a holiday
Thursday, July 9th, 2009
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 It
has been a busy week. The kids and Jon have kept us busy, visiting Jean
and Chris, attending the Stampede, and generally holidaying. I had a visit
with the gang at Global on Tuesday and picked up several boxes of patties to
feed to my splits. I figure they need feed all summer for best build-up.
Some, of course, may not actually need the feed, but some will, and all will
benefit I am sure. Supplementation helps balance nutrition and makes sure the
hives do not run short on
days like today when it is windy and cool with rainy spells, the type of weather that
limits foraging.
This afternoon, I went out to put on some patties. I leave
my smoker box on top of one four pack of hives for convenience. Inside are
two smokers, some paper, matches, a squeeze bottle of BeeGo that I haven't used
for years, but somehow is still in there, hive tools, and burlap for fuel. I opened
the box to get a smoker and noticed I was suddenly surrounded by bees. They were
brightly coloured, not like honeybees. Bumblebees, I realised, wondering why
they were the first to greet me. When I pulled out a piece of paper to
light the smoker, I learned why: bumblebees had moved into my smoker box!
Of course, I worked around them and let them carry on. These were the
first daughters, small bees about the size of honeybees. Over the next
months, I expect to see larger bees until there will be a crop of queens that
are comparatively huge.
 I've
mentioned that the bees remove all traces of the patties, but that is not
strictly true. I use pillows that can press down on the frames, if there
is no wax on top and so,
sometimes, when the frames are well scraped (not normal in my outfit) and there
is no ladder comb, the bees cannot access the paper and it remains on the top
bars. No big deal.
Some beekeepers are now feeding patties on the floor and
reporting good results if the weather is warm and the hives are strong.
In my case I can count on neither, so I feed on the top bars.
In addition to the bumblebees, I encountered a family of skunks,
happily mousing under my pallets in the shed. I had noticed a little bit of skunk
scratching around some hives that had been hanging out, but that was my fault
for crowding the hives. After splitting, the bees don't hang out and the
skunks have quit eating bees.
I found one split that had dwindled, but also several hives that
needed splitting again. When I left, the hive count was up to 32. I
expect to lose three or four of that number, but we'll see.
Saturday, July 11th, 2009
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We took in the parade in Three Hills and then had a picnic at
the Trochu Arboretum
Wednesday, July 15th, 2009
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Subject: Re: What makes the successful beekeeper?
From: Allen
Dick
Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee
Biology
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 21:36:30
-0600
> Pretty good, I guess. But to me, a real beekeeper is simply
someone who > can't NOT have bees. (Believe me, I tried for a few
years but it didn't > last)
Interesting thought. Somehow I imagined I might manage to stop
having bees, but they just keep multiplying. I was down to three
hives a year back and figured I might finally break free, but now I
find I have 32 hives again.
Also, it turns out that having bees can be as much work or as
little as you like. Before I was a commercial beekeeper, 32 hives
would have occupied all my spare time. Now I might spend 30 hours a
year on them and only work on them a few times. |
Subject: Re: What makes the successful beekeeper?
From: Allen
Dick
Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee
Biology
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 09:14:08
-0600
>> Now I might spend 30 hours a year on them and only work on
them a few times.
> Yes. Some of us pick up the "benign
neglect" style of beekeeping. With an 82-year-old back and the
Louisiana heat, it beats the alternatives and seems to work at
least as well.
What I did mention is that when I was a 'commercial beekeeper', I
was actually a crop pollinator and a honey producer who kept bees
for that purpose.
Now I am purely a beekeeper and keep the bees for the sake of
keeping bees. There is a huge difference.
These days, I try to avoid producing and handling honey and just
keep splitting the bees when they threaten to start making too much
of that heavy, gooey nuisance. I use a quick and dirty walk-away
method. At some point soon, I'm going to have to sell some hives if
the trend continues.
I should also mention, I keep them loaded with Global's standard
pollen patties all spring and into the summer. Right now, I have
three patties on most hives and at least one on all of them. Seems
that constant feeding in spring results in better bees all around
and reduces the winter loss the following winter to the 15% range,
which is about as good as one can expect over time in our cold, long
winters. (More info and pix at
www.honeybeeworld.com/diary
|
|
>Do you know about how many quick splits will
succeed on average?
We used to split a thousand or so that way and get at least 85%
success.
We split on May 10th and after, which means there was a flow,
somewhat settled weather, drone rearing well underway and many
already emerged.
Timing is everything, and the colony must be strong in the first
place, with brood in all stages in both boxes. Tipping the
double forward, there have to be bees on most bottom bars at
mid-day. It is best not to let them get so strong that they get
swarmy, though.
We usually put a deadout or other empty brood box on the floor
and set the split on top. Where the hives were on pallets, we
set the split close beside the parent on a single floor. The two
were visually similar, so bees usually divided quite evenly
between the original and the split. We use auger holes. Not sure
that the normal floor would get such an even drift.
When splitting watch for queen cells on the bottom bars. They
are a valuable head start, and it is easy to wreck them by just
setting the box down on another.
The duds were not a huge loss, since they were full of young
bees which had not been used up, so we just used them as seconds
on any queenright hives that looked a little weak.
Much of this is described in detail at my website under
'Selected Topics" and scattered through diary entries.
One other thing: Walk-away splits are just that. Don't keep
peeking. Moving the frames and boxes can damage the few cells
that are built. The cells could be anywhere and denting them
consigns the new queen to death. Wait several weeks before
looking. 21 days after the split is a good target date for
looking for new eggs and young brood.
Don't worry about wasting bees if they do not requeen, since the
bees in that divide will be fresh, not having been used up in
brood rearing. Also the broodless period will be very hard on
varroa and reduce the load drastically.
When found queenless, failed splits make a tremendous booster to
drop onto a weaker hive. Usually they will not be robbed out or
abandoned, assuming you followed the rules and only did the
splits on a building flow period and be full of bees, pollen,
and honey.
This method of splitting may not make the most intensive use of
the bees and equipment, but is very economical on labour and not
too hard on the bees, especially if the owner is not a frame
moving and frame-scraping fanatic. |
I posted on BEE-L, and mentioned this page, so I figure I should
update. Here are some of the patties several days after application (on
the 9th).
We are in the middle of an intense honey and pollen flow, yet the bees are getting
going on the patties. Since the hives were without patties for at least
two weeks, it will take time for them to get accustomed to them again.
The bumblebees are coming along well, too.
I haven't been doing anything in the way of monitoring or
medicating lately. I suppose I should check them out for varroa one of
these days. One thing, though, constant splitting is a good varroa control
measure in itself. Constant splitting is also a good control measure to
prevent honey production, and that is good, since I don't have an extractor.
I gave my last super of honey to friends to extract, but never saw it or the
honey again.
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:06:58 -0400 From: obatechtransfer Subject: Reassessment
Attached is a regulatory proposal from the PMRA regarding the
reassessment of Note to CAPCO C94-05 65% liquid formic acid (FA)
stating that it is proposing to phase-out the Note to CAPCO C94-05
by December 31, 2010. All uses of 65% liquid formic acid will
therefore be required to be registered.
PMRA is suggesting that there is sufficient time between now and
December 31, 2010 for submitting applications for registration of
65% liquid FA, but recommend that applicants go through
pre-submission consultation prior to submitting their re: Note to
CAPCO C94-05 application(s).
The PMRA will accept written comments on PRO2009-01 up to 45 days
from the date of publication (June 4, 2009). Please forward all
comments to PMRA Publications prior to July 17.
Pest Management Regulatory Agency Health Canada Facsimile:
613-736-3758 2720 Riverside Drive Information Service: A.L. 6605C
1-800-267-6315 or 613-736-3799 Ottawa, Ontario pmra_infoserv@hc-sc.gc.ca
K1A 0K9 pmra_publications@hc-sc.gc.ca
You can comment on an online feedback form by following this
link: Pest Management Regulatory Agency Publications Section
Thank you
-- Ontario Beekeepers' Association Tech-Transfer Program
http://techtransfer.ontariobee.com (519) 836-3609
|
Here is something serious that Wayne, and others
have brought to my attention --
A
regulatory proposal from the PMRA (new window)
Some of us have been aware for a long time that
having any approved product for formic acid application could
endanger the current status of formic in Canada which allows a
number of application methods and some latitude in use.
With an approval of a commercial product, two
things happen.
-
The PMRA has an excuse to say that the other applications
are now unnecessary, and
-
The owner of a registered product has an incentive to
squash competition for the much cheaper generic product -- plus the funds to
do so from sales -- by lobbying the PMRA until they cave and make
other methods of application illegal.
The simple fact is that the commercial product does
have its place, but should not be permitted to drive out other applications.
The one commercial method is very limited as to timing, hive configuration
and other factors, and in no way replaces all the other uses.
We have seen this in the US, where the use of formic is a touchy
question, and risky for the user, since a number of regulatory agencies may
descend on the user and administer draconian punishments, simply for using one
of the safest and most efficient methods of control.
One size simply does not fit all. Mite-Away is not
suitable for all purposes and situations. There are many vital
applications for raw formic, such as in nucs, flash treatments, etc.
Beekeepers are wise enough be able to use this product safely. Not to
minimize the real concerns in safe handling, formic is no more dangerous than
gasoline, and in many ways safer. There is no danger to the consumer from
residue. The only risk is to the handler and that IMO is an occupation
health and safety issue, not a pest management issue.
|
Attention Canadians!
You can comment
on an online feedback form by following this link:
Pest Management Regulatory Agency Publications Section
Do it!
Remember, if each and
every one of us doesn't squeal and squeal loud, we will only
have one expensive, limited method legal in Canada for applying
formic for tracheal and/or varroa mites -- and you'll only have
yourself to blame! |
|
Here is my comment. Feel
free to borrow, but please do
write to PMRA. Now.
As a long-term commercial beekeeper
who is informed and active in industry issues, I am very concerned about
any action which might influence the ability of beekeepers to apply
formic acid in beehives as they see the need, subject to published
recommendations by extension apiarists, and with consideration for
weather, hive populations and worker safety.
Although I am very
concerned about food safety issues and operator risks, I believe that
formic acid in the liquid state is a safe product in the hands of
educated users and that restrictive or prohibitive legislation or
regulation would be counterproductive and quite damaging to our
industry.
I realise that there is now a commercial product on the
market that incorporates formic acid and that fact may be used to
suggest that it is now reasonable to eliminate the need for our current
permissions for 65% formic use, but what must be remembered is that
there are many circumstances where that specific product is neither
practical or effective, but other methods of formic acid application are
very useful.
To cite just one example, many
beekeepers manage nucleus hives which are much smaller in volume and
number of bees than the product design anticipates, and additionally,
there are numerous other situations where that specific product is not
practical. Moreover, there are times when a partial treatment is better
than none at all, and the commercial product is designed for one
inflexible application.
Unlike some chemicals which may
create pest resistance if over or under-dosed or used for an incorrect
period of time, dosage and period of treatment with formic are not
critical and there is no likelihood of resistance being a problem.
Likewise, formic acid is not a cumulative or dangerous poison in any
dose that is likely to get into hive products.
It is my understanding that the
formic application product now registered was originally designed by a
Canadian scientist who has expressed strong reservations about the
efficacy of his own creation and subsequent modifications of that design
in many everyday circumstances, but has been unable to comment recently
due to legal action against him.
I personally believe that the
commercial product is a useful product and has definite applications,
but is not suitable in all situations and cannot replace the use of
liquid formic acid in all, or even the majority of instances. The
need for additional wooden beekeeping equipment to employ the commercial
product is also a major drawback compared to other methods of
application. Moreover, the cost of the prepared product is very
much higher, discouraging its use in many situations where liquid formic
would be used.
To limit, prohibit or otherwise
restrict the use of formic acid by beekeepers would be a mistake and
encourage -- possibly covert -- use of far more toxic but less obvious
chemicals as a result of desperation.
Formic, used properly by educated
users is a totally safe product from the honey consumer perspective, and
as safe a product from the applicator perspective as any chemical that
is used.
As a result, I along with the many
commercial beekeepers in Canada entreat your agency to continue the
current permissions for use, for the sake of our industry and the health
of our bees.
Nothing good will come of
restricting formic acid use by beekeepers.
Thank you.
Allen Dick
|
Thursday, July 16th, 2009
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| > To Mr. Allen Dick. beekeeper colleague :
From
central Chile I write. We are here at the end of winter -
almonds pollination stats around august 10 - . I studied your
patties ingredients. Since I have still lots of pollen flower as
any amounts of honey, I was trying a formula without sugar or
syrup : 24 % soya; 14 % yeast ; 14 % pollen and 48 % honey. It
comes up to 23 % protein .So, my formula has some 6 % more
proteins than yours. How much does the bee tolerate ? Will this
higher % make it less attractive to the bee ? Have you done any
tryals with these components ? With the hope you find some time
for an answer or directions to references
Measurement of protein levels can be a bit tricky, since some
people talk about the level compared to dry ingredients and
others on the finished patty. Some think 20% is ideal, but I
don't think it matters as long as the levels are high enough
that the bees don't have to eat vast amounts to get sufficient
nourishment, especially if there is pollen coming into the hive
as well.
Personally, I don't think that the percent protein is critical
or that there is danger of too much protein as long as the bees
have choice and can eat other things at the same time. That will
dilute the protein, lipids, etc. to the levels required by the
bees.
I think anything from 10% to 25% based on wet weight is just
fine, since it is important to add enough sugar the get good
consumption and prevent spoilage, plus the right amount of water
for good texture.
allen |
From: Peter Borst To: BEE-LAs one might suppose, the quality of emergency queens is
not simply a
matter of the bees raising queens from a bunch of different eggs and
letting the first (and worst) come out and rule. While they do use
eggs
and larvae of different ages, they then proceed to destroy a lot of
them,
suggesting that they are "evaluating' them in some fashion.
According to
work by Dave Tarpy, et al., bees seem to prefer queens raised from
older
eggs versus either those from younger eggs or older larvae.(quoted material):
Selection of high-quality queens by the workers during
queen development has been demonstrated by Hatch et al.
(1999), who found that during emergency queen rearing
workers preferentially destroyed queen cells built from
older worker larvae. Workers destroyed 53% of the queen cells
that they initiated.
Despite selective behavior by the
workers during queen rearing, considerable variation in
quality exists among newly emerged adult queens. This
variation in quality among queens gives workers the
opportunity to benefit by selecting high quality queens
that are fully developed, when the decision will be most
accurate.
Honeybee workers interact with queens extensively
following queen emergence and may affect
the outcomes of queen duels in favor of high-quality
queens.
SEE: The influence of queen age and quality during queen replacement in
honeybee colonies DAVID R. TARPY, SHANTI HATCH & DAVID J. C.
FLETCHER Worker regulation of emergency queen rearing in honey bee colonies S. Hatch, D.R.Tarpy, and D.J.C. Fletcher |
Subject: Re: Walk Away Splits
From: allen dick Reply-To: Informed Discussion of
Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology
<BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:19:31 -0600
> After years of observing hives that
didn't take our grafted queen cells, I >
have the opinion that the emergency
queens were 50 % good size, but many >
queens were small runts, some so small
as to be hard to differentiate from >
workers.
I'm glad to hear comments from those
who have had different experience from
mine. No two operations, locales or
management systems are the same, so
differences are to be expected. Your
situation is obviously very different
from mine, and I expect that I would
make decisions similar to yours, if in
your shoes.
Also, you may be a much better
beekeeper than average. I suspect you
are. The average beekeeper is not able
to consistently obtain the quality you
that you may consider normal, and
therefore have a lower standard of
comparison.
So, in the following, I am not
arguing with you, but speaking more
generally on the topic and making some
random points.
Understanding that situations vary,
as I said, the emergency queens of which
I speak are those which are raised under
specific ideal conditions. For fairness,
should be compared to to grafted queens
raised under typical conditions, In both
cases there are bound to be some culls.
Nobody who has dealt with poor queens
raised by grafting methods blames solely
the method in the way, for some reason,
people tend to blame the emergency
impulse for the duds they have seen
every time the topic comes up.
Seems to me that we hear a lot of
grumbling about the quality of
commercial queens and then idealize
those same queens when comparing to
nature's product.
Just as grafted queens are not all
the same, lumping all emergency queens
into one class is unfair. I guess we
should think about the fact, too, that
grafted queens are raised under the
emergency impulse, so the only question
is who gets to choose the mother and the
larva and who is best at handling the
larvae, pupae and newly hatched virgin.
Each of us has a different opinion as to
who knows best, the bees or some newly
hired grafter and summer help at a queen
factory.
> I would never advocate splits made
with emergency cells *if* high quality >
grafted cells were available, any more
than I would buy cheap poor quality >
queens from a breeder to save a few
bucks.
There are a lot of factors to
consider here. Having bought thousands
of cells and evaluated the result, I am
less inclined to make a strong
distinction. There is also the whole
economic question. What is in short
supply, time, expertise, weather,
equipment, bees? What is the price of
honey? Queens? Cells? What is the
development and production window?
> All things considered, a good queen
has the most impact on the general >
quality of the hive.
This is generally agreed. The
question then becomes, what defines
'good' and how much better 'best' than
'good', and can that difference be made
to pay or is the extra cost and effort
just an investment in managerial ego?
> One other consideration that has
not been mentioned on this subject most
> recently is this: the time factor.
When we split in Florida, every day is >
crucial to get queens laying ASAP to
build up good populations to make >
honey. By using cells, one can get a
jump on it, especially when queens > are
not available because of high demand and
pricey.
Very good points that illustrate why
an approach that fits me and my goals
does not fit yours.
Another consideration is that a
beekeeper is not necessarily stuck with
either/or. Smart beekeepers when out in
a yard a long way from home, no queens
along and with no likelihood of an early
return to this yard and faced with a
need to split, or to deal with a strong
but queenless or suspected queenless
hive will drop in a frame of eggs and/or
young brood -- and walk away. Moreover,
queenless hives may not accept a queen,
but will generally accept eggs and
brood.
All in all, I am sure that walk-away
splits will never become the main
method, but it is astounding how popular
it has become in recent years,
especially with those who are not under
pressure to extract every penny from
their bees.
> It has been shown (or at least
strongly implied) in the reading I have
done > that starting with younger larvae
results in generally more ovarioles-down
> to about 18 hours or so anyway, and
you tend to diminish the quality of >
queens as you move much over 24 hours.
"Contemporary Queen Raising" By >
Laidlaw Page 18
My understanding is that these
studies are in relation raising single
queens by grafting, not batches of
emergency queens. Maybe there is no no
difference, but maybe...
Besides, I personally don't consider
the claimed difference to be that
significant. For those who are in
conditions where their queens are always
the limiting factor, maybe this is
important, but in my experience, in my
operation, the limitations are usually
the number of supporting bees, the feed
available, the weather, etc. not the
queen -- unless she is really bad.
> Randy commented that he had seen
some small emergency queens. My >
observations are in line with this-that
the % of emergency queens that are >
small is higher than those rasied
"normally".
I have seen some, too, but usually
those runty emergency queens we recall
seeing are ones raised at inopportune
times by weakened hives under stress.
The topic here is walk-away splits
made under ideal conditions in terms of
population, young bees, season, etc. and
I think that tends to preclude the
problem.
One thing that should be mentioned is
that the walk-away split -- as with
anything to do with bees -- may work
marvellously for some and not at all for
others.
One should not suppose that because
it is written up here that everyone is
going to see the same success.
The locale, the strain of bee, the
condition of the hives, and many other
factors may enter into the mix.
The judgement and experience of the
beekeeper is a huge factor, too. Some
people can do just about anything with
bees and get away with it, while others
don't ever seem to have any luck.
In addition to experience and empathy
for bees, I suspect it comes down in
many cases to the ability -- or lack
thereof -- to understand and follow
instructions, plus the ability -- or
lack thereof -- to observe and make
intelligent extrapolations.
> When I've done it I've gone back on
the fourth day and broken down sealed
cells to prevent this. There are usually
some.
Since the diet for larvae is the same
for the first three days whether the end
result is to be a queen or worker, and
we are using hives that are thriving,
with lots of young bees, and that are on
a honey and pollen flow, why would a two
or even three-day-old larva not make as
good a queen as a younger one?
Also, what makes you think that the
unsealed cells were not started with
larvae of the same age as the ones being
broken down, only later?
> The point Kirk made about timing
factors in most of the time. A mated >
queen speeds up the process
It can, assuming 1.) the beekeeper is
skilled in introductions and assuming
2.) the new queen gets laying right
away, and assuming 3.) the new queen is
good in the first place, handled OK in
shipping, and not superceded as soon as
the beekeeper turns his back. We assume
a lot.
In many case, in the right hands,
these are safe assumptions, however, I
have seen the pitfalls too often, and
queens cost $20 here in Canada, plus
they have a long trip to get here
oftentimes...
> plus when bees return to the
Midwest from almonds we can not raise
our > own queens or even use cells as we
do not have mature > drones.
Then the walk-away technique is out
of the question. Why even consider it?
The fact that people even consider at at
times when they should not adds to it's
undeservedly bad rep.
> Walkaways are a bit of a gamble as
are cells at times but most >
professional beekeepers have
experimented with walkaways. Another
tool for > the beekeeper tool chest.
Yes, and use them fairly often, but
don't give the technique much respect.
If the truth be known, the bees raise
most of the queens in commercial hives
behind the beekeeper's back. <Allen is
ducking and running :)>
> I will say that only using walkaway
splits will *in my opinion* set bad >
traits in your bees. Some of the most
aggressive bees I have worked years >
ago came from beekeepers using walkaway
splits year after year.
That can happen, since walk-away
tends to be a selection technique, and
not one that takes the sensibilities of
the beekeeper or his neighbours into
account <G>. Depending on the original
stock and other factors in management,
the results can be unpredictable, except
that you will get bees that build up to
splitting size, requeen themselves well,
and survive to the next split. Obviously
some selection would be a good idea from
time to time, such as encouraging drone
rearing in attractive and productive
colonies, and eliminating unbearable
colonies, and bringing in some new
stock. We all do that. Beekeepers can
never be stopped from bringing in a new
queen from somewhere distant. It is a
given.
Additionally, many of us who do use
walk-away techniques will insert cells
we raise or beg, or queens when we have
them, but do not worry when we do not.
> When you raise your own queens from
a chosen breeder or buy queens/cells >
from a chosen breeder queen you will *in
my opinion* end up with better > yards
of bees in all aspects.
Yeah, but you are stacking the deck
here. Most beekeepers are victim to what
they can get a lot of the time, and only
kid themselves that they are getting
something decent the rest of the time,
after the queens have been raised
en-masse by hired help, banked, shipped
in hot conditions, and held pending
intro.
As pros, influential writers, and
volume purchasers, we have some
purchasing power, leverage with the
shipper, and some idea of who is hot and
who is not, but most beekeepers take
what they can get and say, "Thank You!".
Saturday,
July 18th, 2009
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Metamorphosis of the queen bee |
| Egg |
hatches on Day 3 |
| Larva (several moltings) |
Day 3 to Day 8˝ |
| Queen cell capped |
~ Day 7˝ |
| Pupa |
~ Day 8 until emergence |
| Emergence |
~Day 15˝ - Day 17 |
| Nuptial Flight(s) |
~Day 20 - 24 |
| Egg Laying |
~Day 23 and up |
I split last, it seems on July 2nd, with a secondary split on the
9th. That means the earliest I can split again is on the 23rd
(2+21), and that day is coming up fast.
Looking at the table from
Wikipedia, we
see that, assuming that the larvae chosen for queens are aged 3 to 5
days, then the earliest we should expect nuptial flights to be
complete is 24 - 3 = 21 days after the split date, or July 23.
Of course, we do not want to mix up and confuse the yard during
mating or the queens could get lost. The splits from the ninth
should not be mating on the 23rd, but one never knows.
Sometimes the hives being split were already raising a queen or
queens when we split them. I don't look.
|
Pollen Patty Consumption During
a Major Flow
Looking at the pictures below, I put these patties onto the hives
on July 9th and this is the 18th. That was just over a week ago, and during a
strong nectar and pollen flow. There are hundreds of acres of
clover, alfalfa and canola in full bloom all around these hives.
(see the entrance activity in a typical hive, below).
Some people think that bees won't eat patties when
there is honey and pollen coming in. Hogwash. These
are Global standard patties with 15% pollen, but they would be
eating patties even without pollen, but possibly not as quickly.
Consider that what I gave these hives and the amount that some
ate in a week is as much or more than many beekeepers put on
their hives in a whole year!
Keeping in mind that some of these hives are queenless, and some
quite small, take a look at the consumption. Note that one
hive ate most of two patties already! Another is just nibbling
around the edges. I took these pictures at random and did not
open more than the first few hives I came to. I was not
wearing a veil or using smoke. One of the pictures shows why I
should have used a smoker last time I peeked. Note the bees
trapped and dead on top of the patties. I normally smoke them
down a little before closing.
The point here is that bees will eat good patties at any time of
year. When it rains, when it is dark, when it is windy, patties benefit
the bees and keep them building. Less tangible is the improved
health and robustness of the bees and the improved wintering that
comes after a season of patty feeding. For that you'll have to take
my word, or try it yourself.
Click any picture for
a better view
 |
 |
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 |
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 |
 |
In case you arrived here by a direct route, this
topic is part of this diary
page, where the history of this apiary is described more fully. |
I guess what I am wondering right now is this: I have a friend who
recommended splitting two-storey producing hives (with excluders over the
seconds) at the end of July by removing one of the two brood boxes and placing
it behind the hive somewhere and adding a cell to each half.
I don't know what to make of the bumblebee nest in
my smoker box. There are lots of cells, but I only
saw one bee. Maybe they are all out foraging, or
maybe it got too hot in the black smoker box.
Another possibility is that they were overtaken by
parasites. Bumblebees are heavily parasitized in
nature. |
The idea was that if the bees are smoked up a bit trough the main
entrance before splitting, the queen will be in the upper
brood box and remain with the remaining single brood box and the the
hive. Any working bees that are removed in the lower box will
drift right back to the main stand and continue work in the supers.
That is the theory. Therefore, the crop should not be
affected much and the split, having quite a bit of brood in all
stages and two months and more to get queenright and built up for
winter should do quite well. The split would be somewhat
depleted of bees by the smoking and drifting, but should be fine in
hot weather and robbing should be no problem during a flow. A queen
cell should ideally be placed in each of the two brood boxes at the
time of splitting to ensure a quick requeening, but that is not
really necessary.
The process can be very easy, if the hive is tipped back on a
ladder-like device and the bottom box pried off or if the hives are
being stripped of honey at the time. A hive loader also makes
the job simple.
The first year I tried that idea, it worked marvellously and I
got a crop and lots of great splits that wintered well, once a
second box was placed under it in September, so the next year I
repeated the process. That year, I lost half the hives over
the subsequent winter. At the time, I blamed it on splitting
too late, but on thinking it over, I am now wondering if the reason
for the loss was that the hives I split the first time were on fixed
locations and the ones I spilt the second time were on pollination
and thus stressed. Moreover, I had to move these hives about
the time the new queens were getting laying and that might have been
a problem.
Hives on pollination are stressed and undernourished anyhow, so I
am wondering if I can get away with one more split since I am
feeding protein and the hives are not being moved. I think
I'll take my chances. With luck, I could wind up with 50 or
sixty hives next spring from the nine I had this year. We'll
see.
Well, I have been splitting like mad, hoping to prevent the hives
getting plugged with honey, but I just went out to take some
pictures, and I'm afraid I'll have to super some of them.
I'm trying to get some of my pollinator friends to try
feeding patties all summer. I'm betting that they will see
a huge boost in wintering success. So far, no luck.
Too much work? Apparently it should not be,
though. In California, many beekeepers are feeding strong
colonies by placing Global Patties on the bottom board with
great success! Of course this only works in warm weather
with strong colonies.
Sunday,
July 19th, 2009
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In the evening, we took a hike in the Kneehill
Creek valley near home.
Monday,
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> On good hives, I would always try to be at least one
super ahead of them,
> in case you get a sudden flow or can't get back in
time. That means one
> deep or two mediums.
Peter and the others sum it up well. Lots of room early,
and less after
swarming season.
One reason for lots of room is that nectar takes space
and the bees ideally
spread it out a bit to dry it down. In a heavy flow,
20lbs or more of
nectar may come in per day. That large volume will be
distilled down to a
comb or less of honey overnight, and unless you look at
just the right
moments, you will never know the bees used the space.
Many beekeepers don't super enough, and then
congratulate themselves on the
work they saved by not carting out the supers when they
see that the bees
didn't do much or seem to need the space.
If they had supered generously and early, they might
have been amazed to
have gotten several additional supers of honey and
larger populations.
Maybe they even lost a swarm and never knew.
I have put on thirds early and returned to see the bees
still in the
seconds. Careful examination, though, showed the bees
had, indeed, been up
and working on the comb, including a good start on
drawing a sheet of
foundation. They will go up and then back down a time or
two if the weather
is changeable before they expand enough to stay up.
Maybe I'm
anthropomorphizing, but I believe they know how much
space they have and
develop to use what they have. Maybe it is not thought,
but just the fact
that there is less pressure on the brood area when a
quick flow hits
allowing the queen to really lay up some brood instead
of being cut back
temporarily.
Just as a swarm will usually ignore a recently placed
bait hive, no matter
how attractive, in favour of a cavity that has been on
site for weeks, it
seems that bees remember the geometry of their hive. An
example that never
ceases to amaze me is how bees are slow to occupy a new
third box -- even a
sticky one -- if they have never had a third and been
confined to two, but
will rush up into a replacement third when an existing
one is taken and
replaced, no matter how ratty and unattractive the
replacement might be.
|
Yesterday, I was celebrating the
expanse of flowers in every direction. Today, two swathers
showed up and cut the hay east of us and on our railway strip.
Hay cutting is necessary, and results in regrowth later, but in the
short term, it sends the bees farther afield to the canola and
ditches.

Nature -- the foxes, skunks, birds,
and the weather -- and the farming activity viewed from our windows
are far more interesting evening entertainment than anything I've
seen lately on TV.
I got a call tonight. A friend who is a
very well respected beekeeper and pollinator is considering trying
patty feeding during the summer to see if it results in better
wintering. Hooray! I think that this is going to be a
huge discovery and reduce our dependence on imports.
I have to get out and deal with the ants.
I see they are getting the better of some splits. I guess I
have to decide about varroa, too. Should I just give
everything a shot of oxalic syrup and be done with it, or should I
survey. How much time do I want to spend? Can I get a
sticky board into the entrances? Do I want to kill 300 bees in
every hive? Option number one is tempting.
Summer Bee Meetings; I plan to go away
again soon. East, west, I can't decide. There are two in
the East: The
Eastern Apicultural Society in Upper New York State and also a
Northeast
Treatment Free Beekeeping Conference in Massachusetts. I considered the
latter, quite seriously, but looked at the programme and it looks a
bit lame -- and meagre. There are some speakers I know and would like to see, but
others of the participants I find overly speculative, argumentative and
excessively imaginative.
I
have been making some mead lately. I've gotten it down to the
basics. 12 lbs honey, enough water to make up 5 gallons, 50ml
of dibasic ammonium phosphate, and one pack of EC-1118. After
several days in the primary -- a five-gallon pail -- I siphon it
into a carboy and wait until it stops bubbling. The I add a
pack of kieselsol and an hour later, the Chitosan. After a day
or three, it is ready to drink, but, of course the best plan is to
bottle it and wait a while.
The EAS theme is "Towards Nonchemical
Beekeeping" and the other group, by its name, claims to have already arrived at
the goal. I know the latter group is sincere and some of them
are truly "Nonchemical", but I am concerned that the successes are
somewhat unique and idiosyncratic and not commercially viable on any
wide scale. The EAS group includes a very respectable
selection of scientists and beekeepers and includes quite a few
personal friends, some with whom I debate frequently and with
whom I am not uncomfortable disagreeing. The Northeast group
includes some friends, but also some who are quite dogmatic and
people I would tend to avoid. Both groups, I am sure will provide a
worthwhile experience. I could go to both, I suppose, but
imagine I will wind up at neither.
I suppose I should not forget mentioning the
Western Apicultural Society
and the Heartland
Apicultural Society, too. The annual WAS Conference will
commence the evening of Monday, August 17, 2009, continuing through
Thursday, August 20. The meeting will be held at the Dry Creek Best
Western Inn, 198 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, California,
I see that Heartland was back in early July.
Their website is very minimal. I have to congratulate EAS on
their site. It is very good this year, even if getting it
ready was a bit late for my plans. (I always give them grief
about their site).
Wednesday,
July 22nd, 2009
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We moved some bees last night. 32 on one location was getting
to be a bit much. Although I moved 12 of them only 0.65 of a
mile, I figure there should not be much drifting. If queens
are being mated, this may not be optimal, but we will see.
I have been trying to keep the hives comparatively weak, so that I
get the maximum in splits and also so I don't produce honey.
Looking at the pictures from last night, some are getting pretty
strong.
I'm going to have to do some beekeeping. Tomorrow is the next split
day on my calendar.

Friday,
July 24th, 2009
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I got to work just after supper. I started by putting a third
on all the hives that
were hanging out.
The camera is a Fuji. It is waterproof and dustproof. It
takes good pictures, but
not as good as some cameras I've had.
I see the bumblebee nest has died off. Maybe too hot in the
smoker box?

That's the trusty forklift holding thirds to put on and some hives
are hanging out.

Patties are pretty well gone, now. Replacements are added on
top.

The bees clean up all evidence of the patties, paper and all.


A fragment of paper being thrown out of the hive. A floor
under a split that failed. Looks like
ants
contributed to its demise, but I doubt they were the main cause.
Sometimes queens
fail to emerge or mate and the hive dwindles to nothing as the bees
go next door or die off.


I had to pull out quite a bit of honey and replace it with
foundation. As nine o'clock
approached, the bees began telling me, "It's time to leave". I
worked the
whole time in shorts and sandals only. No veil.
Saturday,
July 25th, 2009
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Five
more months until Christmas.
I set up the pool today. Should have done it sooner, but it
got so hot, I figured I had to. It's not really a very good
pool. I used it one year only and a few days after I set it
up, Ziggy the cat jumped in. He apparently thought he was
jumping on top of something solid. He never was very
smart.
Realising his situation, he immediately headed back for the edge and
clawed his way out. His claws pierced the air-filled support
edge resulting in collapse. I patched it, but the rim has
never held air well since then. The pool also now turned out
to have a couple of pinholes on the side. I patched them, too.
I'm contemplating getting a better pool, but I am seldom home much
in summer and Ellen is not much of a water person.
I looked at the bees again and they are not hanging out anymore
since I added thirds. I went over to Elliotts' where I had
moved some and was worried they might be hanging out and they
weren't either. I'm now thinking that the large populations in
some of the home hives might have been from some bees drifting back.
I intend to work through them quickly and split any that need it,
then super everything before I go to EAS. just to give them room.
Sunday,
July 26th, 2009
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 Well,
finally, we got 0.2 inches of rain. It wasn't much, but
anything helps in a dry year. I notice the neighbour baled the
hay on our place and got -- Tada! one big round bale!
I had taken off several frames the other day and left them overnight
leaning up against the tailgate in the truck. Come
morning, they were forgotten and the sun melted them, that is all
except the one with plastic foundation. I cut the combs up and
melted them in the oven, getting 9 pounds of honey and a lot of
slum. They were old brood frames. I dissolved the honey
to make mead. It looks pretty brown from cocoons, etc.
We'll see what comes out.
After the rain, I notice a little robbing on the truck in the
mornings.
The
truck battery has been going flat if the truck sits for several
days, and I figured there must be an electrical leak. The
problem began after Jon and the kids were playing around in the
truck, so I figured the kids played with everything and something
must have been left on, but nothing seemed to be.
Today I traced it down. After eliminating the various lights
and accessories, I suspected the alternator diodes -- there was a
1/10 Amp drain -- but the alternator tested OK. The culprit (I
could hear it click once in a while) turned out to be a relay on the
fuse panel. I pulled it off and the leak stopped. I have
no idea what that relay does. Everything on the truck still
works. *
* *
* *
*
I
called my favourite NAPA parts man. Without hesitation, he
said, "horn relay".
Aha! The kids must have pounded on the horn button somewhere down
the field, and I suspect it stuck. Then, I'm guessing that
their Dad must have pulled the wire off the horn to stop it, but not
thought to mention it. Since then, the relay has been clicking
on and off, slowly draining the battery. Of course, I never
though to check the horn. One would expect to hear it, if it
were stuck on.
Monday,
July 27th, 2009
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Two days, and I'm off to Ottawa and Round Lake, then EAS. I
have lots to do.
The story yesterday about the horn relay was a great example of how
deductive reasoning is not infallible. I went out and honked
the horn and it worked splendidly! I still do not know what
the relay is for. I do know, even better than before, though,
how wrong a good guess like that can be. Those who blame
extender patties for resistant foulbrood use similar logic and it
seems inescapable -- until the facts are examined. Looks now
as if we got the wrong suspect. The extender patty story was
good and the conclusion credible -- but wrong, it seems in light of
a subsequent examination of facts.
I guess I should add the obvious -- all those folks who use obscure
articles from the past and selected facts from misunderstood
articles from the present to 'prove' their pet theories. These
folks lead others astray and cost them and their bees all manner of
grief. Tuesday,
July 28th, 2009
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As I sometimes mention, I help my friends at Global
out with various odd jobs. Something that has come up lately
is the need for more advertising. Thus far, Global's business
has been built mostly on word-of-mouth. Satisfied customers
tell others and so on. At any rate, they needed an ad and I
decided to see what I can do. Here is my effort. Watch
for it in the September Bee Culture and ABJ.
 In
the evening, I supered the hives . I had planned to split more, but
when I started, I realised that the was not yet enough brood and that I
would just make a mess. I set on some of the extra brood chambxers from
storage.
The dead-outs were quite heavy and a bit of a mess, so I
interspaced foundation with brood combs.
Wednesday,
July 29th, 2009
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Comments
Dear Allen, thanks very much for your diary
entry on the PMRA plan to ban free FA use. Your situation
reminds me very much of ours here in Germany. One company
producing an evaporation device (Nassenheider) once many years
back got the vet. med. licence for FA "in an appropriate
evaporator". Getting these licences is pretty expensive (efforts
are similar to clinical trials on human pharmaceuticals). Thus
neither research/consultancy institutions nor beekeeper
federation issued broader licence application. Now we are stuck
with a situation where some people belief pretty much everything
is an "appropriate evaporator" and others start lawsuits and
criminal cases against them. Last year some persons in few
provincial administration started legislation for the temporal
use of FA 85%. Obviously only in their provinces and application
is only allowed with horrendous administrational effort for an
unknown period of time + you have to buy a FA version available
through pharmacies only. Summa summarum: Try everything to avoid
the restrictions. It just makes life so much more complicated
and will never help to reduce Varroa levels (*). Kind regards
Michael (*) Most of us are fine with 3 times (spaced approx. 5
days) 2.5 ml AS 60% per Langstroth brood comb and an additional
OS application in winter. |
I'm in Ottawa.
Got up at 3, did a few things, packed and
drove to the airport. I arrived at YOW at 2:45 -- 1-1/2 hour late
due to a thunderstorm.
My cousin, Paul, picked me up and we had a
great visit. I really should spend more time in Ottawa, there is so
much to see and the country is beautiful, but tomorrow, I am off to Round
Lake to see Aaron.
Thursday,
July 30th, 2009
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Around ten in the morning, I made off for Round Lake, NY.
The drive should take about five hours. I got there around 7:30 PM.
Maybe the late night and too much good wine
affected me, but today turned out to be "one of those days".
I use my computer for a road navigation, with
M$ Streets and Trips and a USB GPS. My laptop is a three-year-old
Acer. Not a bad machine, really. Dual core and 3 GB, but it
heats up and it is a bit clunky sitting on the passenger seat. M$ does
not make Streets and trips easy to use on the road either. The buttons
on the screen are tiny, but it works well, when it works
Anyhow, I had been noticing occasional issues
with the laptop's power supply and/or its connection to the machine and some random BSODs. Sometimes the power supply connection fails and the battery
runs down. Sometimes the machine gives a message "Not an Acer Power
Supply". Who knows what that means? Regardless, the end result
is that the machine dies, and Vista does not like that. My Vista is
old and tortured anyhow from many installations and removals, and from the
passage of time. The machine has been hauled around a lot, too and
upgraded. I get occasional BSODs and occasional instant shutdowns. Time for a reinstall of the O/S -- or replacement.
The upshot is that today it quit working,
leaving me on a strange road without directions. Today was the day it
chose to be really awful. It died. Maybe the heat was part of
the problem. The machine gets hot sitting in the sun on a hot day.
Without map or directions, I drove straight south
from Ottawa and planned to cross the border and take the scenic route
through the Adirondacks. Without guidance, my first attempt to find
the bridge was a waste of time. I asked directions and a nice man sent
me 20 km in the wrong direction. Finally, I crossed into the USA and,
mercifully, found a Wal-Mart, where I promptly bought a Tomtom GPS. I
was assured that it had maps of Canada as well as the US.
I returned to the van, plugged it in, turned
it on and found it came up in Spanish. I thought I knew some Spanish,
but soon learned that I did not know enough to figure out how to make it
speak Inglis. Finally, giving up, I drove off, trusting in Fate,
but not until I had returned to the store and bought and old fashioned road
atlas. Two non-functional GPSs and a road atlas, and I was off.
I was somewhat able to use the Tomtom, but it
wanted to take me via the Interstates -- the long (very long) way around,
that being the 'fastest' route, and in Spanish. I carried on by the
direct route, enjoying the scenery less than I had expected due to concerns
about where I was and where I might be headed. Along the way, I
finally found the setting to make ot speak my mother tongue.
I arrived to find Aaron mowing his
lawn. Friday,
July 31st, 2009
July past:
2005,
2004,
2003,
2002,
2001,
2000,
1999
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As dry as things were in Western Canada,
Upper New York State was wet. Flooding was on the daily news.
Aaron and I had planned to work some bees and go tubing on the Sacandaga
River, so we were hoping for some sun.
The day was rainy and Aaron was busy preparing to fill some
honey bears and getting ready to extract. Rainy days are great for
washing extracting equipment, since the dampness loosens the honey and wax.
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